Although I’d always used thin bamboo sticks, this time I used a 1x3mm carbon strip. Unfortunately, I chose the 4mm version – I shouldn’t have done so. The bigger the distance between the tail and the center of gravity, the harder it is to compensate it at the front. I made two replicas – a 4mm- and a 3mm ones in thickness, and the resulting weight margin was 1,5g. That’s how I built the wings, and it bought me an hour to build the tail. Then put some weight on it and leave it for about an hour to dry. The plate will definitely bend do the same thing on the opposite side, and the plate will bend back into its initial shape. Attach the adhesive tape to one half, then pull it up and attach it to the other half. Now listen how I use masking tape (painter’s tape). Then I gave it a 5-minute break, put the halves together and taped the whole thing up on both sides. Then I put thin strings of glue on my parts: lateral on one part and perpendicular on the other right after that I glued the edges of the two halves. The wings consist of a base and thin boards with a cut-off trailing edge. I built the wings using two layers of SOLID board (the more attractive side outwards, 8mm thick). Well, it’s ok, let’s keep to the subject. Sorry for the yarn, I just wanted to let you know how and why I use the tools and techniques. Make sure it is always sharp enough and replace blades regularly! Here is an example of what a blunt knife will do to your tile: In this case, the blade will go deep enough, and the cutting will be done by the middle part of the blade, so your tile won’t crumple or tear. Now, a little trick: when cutting out circular parts, pull out the blade, bend it a little and cut the surface, holding it flat again. Also, you can glue (or pin) the template to the tile using a glue stick (or pins) and cut it out. Some guys use markers, but lines are often washed away by glue, and the whole thing looks shabby in the end. Mark it with the softest 8B pencil you have. I have a set of templates – they are all separated at joints, and adhesive tape holds them together, so that you can take it apart and put together any time. The downside of it is that it leaves dull traces on the ceiling tile if you press too hard. The adhesive layer won’t stick to Titan or epoxy. You can wrap servo units in it and just glue them in the right place. Washi tape becomes irreplaceable when you need to fix parts while gluing, and it won’t stain. If you do not put too much glue on paper, none of it will be left on the tile (when you remove the template). I use a glue stick when I need to glue a template to a ceiling tile. You can take it out into the field and use it in case you need an occasional repair, and your aircraft will be ready to take off in 15 minutes. I recommend that you use pieces of adhesive paper, which you throw away right after use. Thanks to its fluidity, it easily penetrates into the texture and can be mixed in small amounts it won’t become glass-like and will retain its slightly elastic structure. Use any container with a thin nozzle for more convenient gluing. However, I don’t recommend you to do that, because it will dry for too long. You can thin the glue down with pure alcohol. Before gluing plastic parts, rub the surfaces with a piece of big-grit sandpaper. This glue is reasonably elastic, and no part of the ceiling tile will be ripped out in case of a crash, and it fills in all pores. Put some glue (do not thin it) on both surfaces, wait for 5 minutes and connect the parts if you want it to bond quickly, wait for 10 minutes and put the parts together this way you can fill up tiny gaps between the surfaces. What I really like about it is an opportunity to use it in a variety of fashions. This one is great for gluing ceiling tiles, paper, wood and certain types of plastic. I’ve been down the extremely thorny and lengthy path of designing and building this sort of aircraft, and I hope my experience will help you avoid trouble. TECHNOLOGY FOR BUILDING TRAINING CROSS-SHAPED STYROFOAM AIRCRAFT
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